Kovalam - The land of ubiquitous coconut palms

As a travel freak, anything from pictures to promotions draws my attention. With Kerala tourism’s ‘Your moment is waiting’ campaign being the latest to capture my eye-balls, I planned to explore God’s own country, albeit in parts. After making footprints on Nelambur and Wayanad, I sketched the 3-day trip to more acclaimed Kovalam -the land of ubiquitous coconut palms.

Kovalam is outlined by the Arabian Sea near the southern tip of India, and is 15kms from Trivandrum (the capital city of Kerala). Originally, a fishing village of Kerala, it got transformed in to an important tourist destination with the arrival of hippies in early seventies. This tropical beach is located at 720 kms from Bangalore and is accessible by all means of transportation. Frequently running KSRTC and private buses takes you to Trivandrum in little over 11 hours. I managed to bargain and paid Rs. 200 for half an hour auto ride from Trivandrum to Ashoka beach.

My initial research suggested Oct-Mar as the best period to visit the place. However, my probability of visiting a beach is inversely proportional to amount of humidity in the atmosphere and the magnitude of tourists thronging the destination. Considering the above factors and the available deals, beginning of October seemed to be the best time to cherish the crescent shaped beaches and curvy backwaters. On the flip-side adventure sports, water rides and white skin can be enjoyed only from mid November to January. An umbrella for a visit in Nov-Dec and high SPF sunscreen in Feb-Mar may be handy.

Exploring the coast was the first thing on my mind after a tiresome bus journey. Country Club Treasure Cove was my wellness partner for stay -a place strategically located in close proximity to three popular beaches –The Ashoka, the Hawah, and the Lighthouse. Ashokabeach is less commercialized therefore offers more privacy and deemed attractive to many. I spent most of the afternoon in the waters at Ashoka. The Leela Kempinsky Resort separates Ashokabeach and the twins; windy Hawah and the red & white striped tall Lighthouse studded beach. Hawah is a black soiled beach and I could children of all ages making soil carvings from castle to mermaids. However, an adjacent hillock providing 180 degree view of the Arabian Sea from its top was a sight to cherish. Private shacks are also available at the beach at a nominal rate of Rs. 25. I preferred spending the rest of the evening sipping Corona, munching chickpeas and clicking photographs. For dinner, I had options covering various provinces albeit not savory. Wherever I go I prefer local food and stalls at the shore are probably the best bet to have the traditional fish moli, king prawn, kalamari or lobster fry. Ironically, a coconut seemed a luxury at Rs. 25 at its abode. At the crimson dusk; shimmering sea, sandy coves, rocky outcroppings, exuberant surf and brilliant sunset summed up my time at the shore.

If one wishes to discover the true splendor of a place, it’s recommended to explore the unacknowledged than to admire only the proven grace. To support the recommendation, my second day itinerary comprised of Poovar, a dreamy lagoon 20kms away, Vizhinjam fishing harbour and the greener countryside. While 2-hr countryboat-cruise in the backwaters of Poovar took me to a stage of stupor, the crab fishing in a kayak proved to be a moment of eternity. During the cruise, I spotted a fisherman in Kayak and shifted alongside with him and learnt the art of crab fishing and later tying its sharp claws till it transforms from crab to crab masala. The next defining instant was a ‘Troy’ adaptation where thousands of boats were lined up at the Vizhinjam pier. Swaying breeze, colorful boats, fisherman attire and the bugle in the background brought the essence of fishing community in this hamlet. Subsequently, a two wheeler would have been an advantage while cruising through the boulevard studded with all the possible hues of green; less commercialization has surely helped preserve the paradise in its original form.

Other nearby places to consider for the trip are the cave temple & PadmanabhSwamyTemple (PST) in Trivandrum and Kanyakumari, 95 kms from Kovalam renowned for its sunrise and ‘Sangam’ (meeting point of Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean). And of course, the best way to prepare for the exasperating journey back for a working Monday is to get the traditional ayurvedic massage. Although every third shop here could be a potential massage parlor, opt for Government approved outlet. Rejuvenated with the invigorating oils at country spa, I headed to pack my bags.

As I pen down my miles traveled, a glimpse out of the bus gives me an artistic vision of Kovalam as a unique aquarelle on a moonlit night. Kovalam indeed was my moment in waiting!